Painting a Bakelite radio cabinet

[o***@tubes.com]

I picked up a RCA Victor 66X2 Radio from 1946-47. It's a very unusual
radio. It is AM broadcast band and one Shortwave band. Amazingly this
radio worked right away, except for the broken dial string and a power
cord that needs to be replaced soon. All the tubes appear to be
original, and all capacitors appear to be original too. Even the filter
cap appears original, and there is no hum.

Other than replace the cord and dial string, I dont plan to do anything
with the components for now, except add a fuse.

The bakelite case is solid, but badly scratched. The bakelite under the
Ivory paint is black. This radio sold in black (unpainted - model 66X1),
Painted Ivory - Model 66X2, and two additional woodgrain models.

My plan is to remove the case from the chassis, remove or tape up the
grill cloth and trim. Then spray paint it with an Ivory colored spray
paint. (after sanding it with some very fine sandpaper to clean up all
scratches).

My question is whether I can use a common spray paint on bakelite, such
as Rustoleum? I may not get the exact color as original, but I dont see
any way to get the original paint.

Have any of you painted bakelite? Will common spray paint work on it?

One other thing, the dial bulbs are burned out. Bayonette base, wired in
series, two 3.2 volt bulbs. A schematic shows them as Mazda 1490. ( I
never heard of Mazda bulbs). Anyhow, where can I get such bulbs?
The bayonette base is the same as a #47 bulb.

BTW: The 6 volt feeding them comes from the filament center tap in the
35Z5 rectifier tube. How they get 6volts from that center tap evades me,
but that's how it is.....



Thanks

[Foxs Mercantile]

Post by o***@tubes.com
One other thing, the dial bulbs are burned out. Bayonette base, wired in
series, two 3.2 volt bulbs. A schematic shows them as Mazda 1490. ( I
never heard of Mazda bulbs). Anyhow, where can I get such bulbs?
The bayonette base is the same as a #47 bulb.

Multiple sources online show them as in stock.

Post by o***@tubes.com
BTW: The 6 volt feeding them comes from the filament center tap in the
35Z5 rectifier tube. How they get 6volts from that center tap evades me,
but that's how it is.....

A lot of things evade you.
<http://www.nostalgiaair.org/pagesbymodel/076/M0015076.pdf>

From the 35Z5GT data sheet:
"Glass octal type used in power supply of ac/dc receivers. The heater
is provided with a tap for operation of a panel lamp. May be supplied
with pin 1 omitted. Requires octal socket."

Hint: It's not "center" tapped.

[Terry S]

Actually it's a common radio and a common circuit configuration, including the dial lamp circuit. It usually is a single bulb, but in this case 2 bulbs in series. Mazda lamps have been around since the beginning of radio, there is no way you could be in the hobby for years and not have run across Mazda bulbs. You do not need to replace with the same manufacturer's lamp.

So the radio works -- Are you going to use it? I'm guessing you have an objection to changing out the capacitors again? Yes, even though it works, they need changing. Yes they do. The filters too.

I've painted many a Bakelite cabinet. Usually the original finish is very hard baked-on enamel and won't respond well to sanding for smoothing or removal. I typically take a chemical gel stripper and coat the cabinet, cover it in plastic wrap, and let it sit for a day. Scrape with a wooden tool, and repeat where necessary. Often I am left with a very shiny black Bakelite cabinet that is too nice to repaint. When I do choose to paint, there are a plethora of paints at my local Walmart that are plastic compatible. Modern spray paints go on smoothly, are very forgiving, and dry rapidly. If you take steel wool and burnish the cabinet, you should not need a primer. Just make sure it's very clean and dust free.

[Dave Platt]

Post by o***@tubes.com
The bakelite case is solid, but badly scratched. The bakelite under the
Ivory paint is black. This radio sold in black (unpainted - model 66X1),
Painted Ivory - Model 66X2, and two additional woodgrain models.
My plan is to remove the case from the chassis, remove or tape up the
grill cloth and trim. Then spray paint it with an Ivory colored spray
paint. (after sanding it with some very fine sandpaper to clean up all
scratches).
My question is whether I can use a common spray paint on bakelite, such
as Rustoleum? I may not get the exact color as original, but I dont see
any way to get the original paint.

http://www.radiomuseum.org/forum/vintage_radio_restoration_bakelite_radio_cabinets.html
has a good discussion of this.

He doesn't mention any specific sort of paint being required, but does
recommend spraying on a coat of primer after a thorough
cleaning... probably a good idea to help ensure good adhesion.

I recall that Rustoleum makes some paint varieties which are specified
as being suitable for use on plastics. This sort of multi-surface
paint might give you some additional defense against peeling, if you
decide to omit the primer step.

[rickman]

Post by Dave Platt

Post by o***@tubes.com
The bakelite case is solid, but badly scratched. The bakelite under the
Ivory paint is black. This radio sold in black (unpainted - model 66X1),
Painted Ivory - Model 66X2, and two additional woodgrain models.
My plan is to remove the case from the chassis, remove or tape up the
grill cloth and trim. Then spray paint it with an Ivory colored spray
paint. (after sanding it with some very fine sandpaper to clean up all
scratches).
My question is whether I can use a common spray paint on bakelite, such
as Rustoleum? I may not get the exact color as original, but I dont see
any way to get the original paint.

http://www.radiomuseum.org/forum/vintage_radio_restoration_bakelite_radio_cabinets.html
has a good discussion of this.
He doesn't mention any specific sort of paint being required, but does
recommend spraying on a coat of primer after a thorough
cleaning... probably a good idea to help ensure good adhesion.
I recall that Rustoleum makes some paint varieties which are specified
as being suitable for use on plastics. This sort of multi-surface
paint might give you some additional defense against peeling, if you
decide to omit the primer step.

It all depends on the details. I used a paint for plastic to use on a
plastic container and it did not work well at all. I cleaned the surface
well, but did not rough it up and did not use a primer. It was not too long
before the paint started to peel. I don't know the type of plastic. It was
a food storage container with a seal ring commonly available in stores.
Just a data point for what it is worth.

[Michael A. Terrell]

Post by rickman
It all depends on the details. I used a paint for plastic to use on a
plastic container and it did not work well at all. I cleaned the
surface well, but did not rough it up and did not use a primer. It
was not too long before the paint started to peel. I don't know the
type of plastic. It was a food storage container with a seal ring
commonly available in stores. Just a data point for what it is worth.

If you are talking about 'Tupperware' type containers, that plastic
is the lowest grade available. It won't hold paint, and common adhesives
won't stick to it.

[C.Copperpot]

Ah, you should re-cap that thing. A lot of those AA5's will still work
but the sound is usually weak compared to after re-cap.
I've used rustoleum paint on a few radios and it works pretty good.
You just have to make sure the radio is real clean and then kinda
scuff up the surface with some fine grit sandpaper.
You should be able to get that grill cloth/holderout of the radio
first. Even if it's skaked in by melted plastic, you can heat that up
with a soldering iron and pull it off. I have stipped a few cabinets
off with citrus type paint stripper and they looked so good in black
that I just left them unpainted. The only ones I re-paint have
repaired cracks.

[Peter Wieck]

... asked how to paint a previously painted Bakelite radio.

a) Paper label: Typically, there is a paper label on the bottom of the case that wants to be saved. Ideally as follows:

Obtain a small tube of optical epoxy. Install masking tape around the label, clearing it by ~1/8". Mix and spread the epoxy over the label. Allow to cure to about 80%. Remove the masking tape - carefully.

b) Preparation of the case: Clean - in sequence, with:

WD-40 on as soft rag. This gets loosens the nicotine, bacon grease, whatever that is ground into the surface. Loosens, but does not remove entirely. Mostly it gets the surface oxides. Just a basic rub-down. If the surface is *really* contaminated - something from a smoker's house - use 0000 Steel Wool with the WD-40. And only for the first cleaning.

Dish-soap and household (clear) ammonia - 1 cup ammonia, 3 cups hot water (not scalding), 1 teaspoon dish soap, soft Scotchbrite pad. This gets the rest of the grease. This is should be done fairly aggressively.

Same again with Isopropyl Alcohol (91% or better). First with the same soft Scotchbrite, then with a soft rag.

Use a high-quality spray enamel in your color of choice. A few lighter coats is better than one heavy, sagging, runny coat.

DO NOT let sandpaper, coarse steel wool nor any other harsh abrasive anywhere near Bakelite. If the contact-surface is broken (the surface of the Bakelite that directly contacted the mold) it will be very nearly impossible to make it shiny again. And why it is that very harsh chemicals such as paint-removers should be avoided.

Bakelite is a thermo-setting phenolic resin including aggregates that could be anything from very find sawdust (lignin), carbon-black, and/or any of several others to add longevity and thermal stability. And, it comes in as many levels of quality as there are different kinds of wood. All wood, but Oak is substantially different from Pine. Catalin is Bakelite without the aggregates.

This is the reason for treating the surface with care. Not all Bakelite is created equal.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

[Tom Biasi]

Post by Peter Wieck
WD-40 on as soft rag. This gets loosens the nicotine, bacon grease, whatever that is ground into the surface. Loosens, but does not remove entirely. Mostly it gets the surface oxides. Just a basic rub-down. If the surface is *really* contaminated - something from a smoker's house - use 0000 Steel Wool with the WD-40. And only for the first cleaning.
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

I wouldn't use WD40 in the same room where I was going to paint.

[Hank]

Post by o***@tubes.com
One other thing, the dial bulbs are burned out. Bayonette base, wired in
series, two 3.2 volt bulbs. A schematic shows them as Mazda 1490. ( I
never heard of Mazda bulbs). Anyhow, where can I get such bulbs?
The bayonette base is the same as a #47 bulb.
BTW: The 6 volt feeding them comes from the filament center tap in the
35Z5 rectifier tube. How they get 6volts from that center tap evades me,
but that's how it is.....

This looks to be the schematic for the set. It's an AA6, with an RF
amplifier ahead of the converter.
http://www.nostalgiaair.org/pagesbymodel/076/M0015076.pdf

We used to use schematics of sets like these back in the 1950's and
'60's as interview questions for EE and technician canditates. One very
good one was "talk to me about the rectifier circuit."

Understanding the circuit starts with understanding basic electricity,
particularly Kirchoff's current law and Thévenin's theorem. What you
are calling a "center tap" between pins 2-3 of a 35Z5 is at the 21.5%
point of the heater, not the center. According to the RCA data sheets,
with 35 volts between pins 2 and 7, you'll see 7.5 volts across pins
2-3. Now add a #47 (6.3v 150 ma.) bulb across pins 2 and 3, and feed
the plate from pin 3. RCA claims that the voltage across pins 2-3 (and
the bulb), with a 60 ma. draw on the cathode is now 5.5 volts and
between pins 2-7, 32 volts.

That, of course, doesn't "add up." Assuming RMS values, a 150 ma.
heater plus 60 ma. of DC is only 210 ma. RMS, which should explain the
lower voltage between pins 2-3. However, also consider that current
flow in the plate circuit, with a 40 mike cap connected to the cathode
is a pulse, not a full half sine wave, and that RCA measurements were
made with a VTVM, which isn't a "true RMS instrument." Those pulses,
and the low thermal inertia of the pilot lamp filament(s) explains why
the bulb is at full brilliance when the set is warmed up and playing.

Another "trick" to the series circuit is that during warmup, the series
filaments are a voltage divider that is essentially constant for any
current passing through the heater string. These heaters have a steep
positive temperature (heat/ohms) coefficient, so the startup current is
more like 1.5 amps. If you are going to fuse the radio, you need to
measure the resistance of the filament string cold, and work from there.

That's for starters.

Now, as to the rest of the set, take a look at the B+ circuit and
voltages. The tube data sheets give 100 volts on both plate and screen
as "typical operation" points for AA5 tubes. However, this set says 76
volts. Also note that "typical operation" specs an initial bias (-1
volt for 12SK7), while this set has the cathodes of the RF tubes
grounded.

Yes, that schematic is a very good interview subject.

Don't get foxed by "Mazda." That was a GE trademark from around 1910 to
denote "tungsten filament," and was licensed by other bulb
manufacturers. GE dropped using it in 1945. If you need bulbs, a 1490
is a 1490, readily available today.

If you are going to play the radio without recapping, the critical caps
are the coupling caps between stages, particularly the cap feeding the
audio power amp. Also, check the value of the grid leak resistor(s).
You should see zero volts DC at the grid of the 35L6.

The AA5 (and AA6) are, with the DC-3 airplane, and the GG-1 locomotive,
standout classics of American design. They look "simple" but there's a
lot of thinking that made them robust and reliable without being
complicated.

Hank

[o***@tubes.com]

Post by Hank

Post by o***@tubes.com
One other thing, the dial bulbs are burned out. Bayonette base, wired in
series, two 3.2 volt bulbs. A schematic shows them as Mazda 1490. ( I
never heard of Mazda bulbs). Anyhow, where can I get such bulbs?
The bayonette base is the same as a #47 bulb.
BTW: The 6 volt feeding them comes from the filament center tap in the
35Z5 rectifier tube. How they get 6volts from that center tap evades me,
but that's how it is.....

This looks to be the schematic for the set. It's an AA6, with an RF
amplifier ahead of the converter.
http://www.nostalgiaair.org/pagesbymodel/076/M0015076.pdf
We used to use schematics of sets like these back in the 1950's and
'60's as interview questions for EE and technician canditates. One very
good one was "talk to me about the rectifier circuit."
Understanding the circuit starts with understanding basic electricity,
particularly Kirchoff's current law and Thévenin's theorem. What you
are calling a "center tap" between pins 2-3 of a 35Z5 is at the 21.5%
point of the heater, not the center. According to the RCA data sheets,
with 35 volts between pins 2 and 7, you'll see 7.5 volts across pins
2-3. Now add a #47 (6.3v 150 ma.) bulb across pins 2 and 3, and feed
the plate from pin 3. RCA claims that the voltage across pins 2-3 (and
the bulb), with a 60 ma. draw on the cathode is now 5.5 volts and
between pins 2-7, 32 volts.
That, of course, doesn't "add up." Assuming RMS values, a 150 ma.
heater plus 60 ma. of DC is only 210 ma. RMS, which should explain the
lower voltage between pins 2-3. However, also consider that current
flow in the plate circuit, with a 40 mike cap connected to the cathode
is a pulse, not a full half sine wave, and that RCA measurements were
made with a VTVM, which isn't a "true RMS instrument." Those pulses,
and the low thermal inertia of the pilot lamp filament(s) explains why
the bulb is at full brilliance when the set is warmed up and playing.
Another "trick" to the series circuit is that during warmup, the series
filaments are a voltage divider that is essentially constant for any
current passing through the heater string. These heaters have a steep
positive temperature (heat/ohms) coefficient, so the startup current is
more like 1.5 amps. If you are going to fuse the radio, you need to
measure the resistance of the filament string cold, and work from there.
That's for starters.
Now, as to the rest of the set, take a look at the B+ circuit and
voltages. The tube data sheets give 100 volts on both plate and screen
as "typical operation" points for AA5 tubes. However, this set says 76
volts. Also note that "typical operation" specs an initial bias (-1
volt for 12SK7), while this set has the cathodes of the RF tubes
grounded.
Yes, that schematic is a very good interview subject.
Don't get foxed by "Mazda." That was a GE trademark from around 1910 to
denote "tungsten filament," and was licensed by other bulb
manufacturers. GE dropped using it in 1945. If you need bulbs, a 1490
is a 1490, readily available today.
If you are going to play the radio without recapping, the critical caps
are the coupling caps between stages, particularly the cap feeding the
audio power amp. Also, check the value of the grid leak resistor(s).
You should see zero volts DC at the grid of the 35L6.
The AA5 (and AA6) are, with the DC-3 airplane, and the GG-1 locomotive,
standout classics of American design. They look "simple" but there's a
lot of thinking that made them robust and reliable without being
complicated.
Hank

Thanks for the detailed explanation. I had a suspicion that the "center
tap" of the rectifier tube was not actually CENTER. The more I work on
these old sets, the more I notice that they are all pretty much the
same, particularly if it's the same brand. One website I looked at, said
that the chassis is a number -xxxx-. (I forget the number, but it was a
4 digit number 10__). I guess that means this same chassis was used in
other RCA radios, not just these 66X_ (1 thru 4) models. But considering
the years they were made, that makes sense. They produced the chassis
and made numerous cabinets to fit around them.

I have to say that I am highly impressed that this 70 year old radio
still works, with it's old caps and all. I have considered recapping it,
or at least the critical caps and the power supply filter caps. But then
again, "if it works, dont fix it". Having it power up with no hum, was
what impressed me most, since the electrolytics are usually bad.

Thanks for explaining that "Mazda". That had me puzzled. In all the
years I have worked on this stuff, that is the first time I saw that
word used. I should have suspected it was a trademark....

That schematic is clearer and better than the one I had, so that will
help too.

[Foxs Mercantile]

Post by o***@tubes.com
I have to say that I am highly impressed that this 70 year old radio
still works, with it's old caps and all. I have considered recapping it,
or at least the critical caps and the power supply filter caps. But then
again, "if it works, dont fix it". Having it power up with no hum, was
what impressed me most, since the electrolytics are usually bad.

Are you stupid, or do you just try to appear to be stupid?

"It works."
Yeah, right up until it doesn't and fries an IF transformer or something
else like one of the vacuum tubes.

A couple of examples:
1. A late '40s vintage Artone AM/FM/Phono console my parents bought new.
It was working when I left home in 1972. I pulled the chassis around
2001 and turned it on. I worked for about 10 minutes and paaaf! one of
the paper caps self-destructed. I replaced that one and tried it again.
This time it lasted 3 minutes and pafff! another paper cap went away.
After I changed the 4th one, I just replaced the remaining ones.'
After another 15 minutes the one of the filter caps self destructed.
I replaced all of them.
The radio sits in my living room and has been working fine for the past
16 years.
2. A Hallicrafters SX-110 general coverage receiver. It looked like new
and had the matching speaker. I set it on the work bench at the shop in
2007. Turned it on, and it worked perfectly. After 20 minutes the audio
slowly dropped to zero. I turned it off to checked what happened. The
filter can was hot enough to fry eggs.
I recapped the radio and gave it to a friend of mine. It's still working
perfectly and is one of his favorite radios.

But, by all means, do whatever you want.
Solid technical advice is wasted on you.

[Jim Mueller]

Post by Foxs Mercantile

Post by o***@tubes.com
I have to say that I am highly impressed that this 70 year old radio
still works, with it's old caps and all. I have considered recapping it,
or at least the critical caps and the power supply filter caps. But
then again, "if it works, dont fix it". Having it power up with no hum,
was what impressed me most, since the electrolytics are usually bad.

Are you stupid, or do you just try to appear to be stupid?
"It works."
Yeah, right up until it doesn't and fries an IF transformer or something
else like one of the vacuum tubes.
1. A late '40s vintage Artone AM/FM/Phono console my parents bought new.
It was working when I left home in 1972. I pulled the chassis around
2001 and turned it on. I worked for about 10 minutes and paaaf! one of
the paper caps self-destructed. I replaced that one and tried it again.
This time it lasted 3 minutes and pafff! another paper cap went away.
After I changed the 4th one, I just replaced the remaining ones.'
After another 15 minutes the one of the filter caps self destructed.
I replaced all of them.
The radio sits in my living room and has been working fine for the past
16 years.
2. A Hallicrafters SX-110 general coverage receiver. It looked like new
and had the matching speaker. I set it on the work bench at the shop in
2007. Turned it on, and it worked perfectly. After 20 minutes the audio
slowly dropped to zero. I turned it off to checked what happened. The
filter can was hot enough to fry eggs.
I recapped the radio and gave it to a friend of mine. It's still working
perfectly and is one of his favorite radios.
But, by all means, do whatever you want.
Solid technical advice is wasted on you.

Jeff was lucky, his capacitors failed quickly while he still had the
radio apart. My experience was different, each one lasted months, so I
ended up taking the set apart numerous times to replace one capacitor
each time. I learned from that, now I replace them all at one go. But
if you like taking things apart repeatedly, that's up to you.

[Foxs Mercantile]

Post by Jim Mueller
Jeff was lucky, his capacitors failed quickly while he still had the
radio apart. My experience was different, each one lasted months, so I
ended up taking the set apart numerous times to replace one capacitor
each time. I learned from that, now I replace them all at one go.

The Artone was the third set I worked once I decide I was going to play
with old radios. The first was a Signatone code practice oscillator and
every cap and resistor was bad in it. The second was a Columbia phono,
AC/DC/Battery portable with a wind up clockwork mechanism.

After about ten years of playing with vintage tube gear, I opened a shop
to do this for profit. This means when you fix a radio, it has to stay
fixed once it goes out the door.

Post by Jim Mueller
But if you like taking things apart repeatedly, that's up to you.

"You can't fix stupid."

[o***@tubes.com]

Post by Jim Mueller
Jeff was lucky, his capacitors failed quickly while he still had the
radio apart. My experience was different, each one lasted months, so I
ended up taking the set apart numerous times to replace one capacitor
each time. I learned from that, now I replace them all at one go. But
if you like taking things apart repeatedly, that's up to you.

Considering my age, it probably dont matter, but I bet all the modern
caps will fail in far less time than those old paper caps. Nothing these
days is made as well as in the old days. Caps that are still working
after 70 years were not poorly made. I think a lot of that was because
in those days, people had respect for their customers, anad wanted the
name of their company to stand out. That was before our "throw away
society". That is no longer the case.

Add to that, the fact that most caps are now made in China, and I know
they wont last. I try to get all NOS Orange Drop caps. They were made in
the USA and were top of the line. They cost more, but are the only ones
I consider worth buying.

[Foxs Mercantile]

Post by o***@tubes.com
Considering my age, it probably dont matter, but I bet all the modern
caps will fail in far less time than those old paper caps. Nothing these
days is made as well as in the old days. Caps that are still working
after 70 years were not poorly made. I think a lot of that was because
in those days, people had respect for their customers, anad wanted the
name of their company to stand out. That was before our "throw away
society". That is no longer the case.

Of for fuck's sake.
You are one ignorant son of a bitch.

Caps made "back then" were made with non-archival, i.e. acid bearing
paper. They were sealed with bee's way which was hygroscopic. Moisture
reacted with the acid in the paper and that was the end of that.

Modern capacitors are made with a metalized mylar film and have a
service life measured in hundreds if not thousands of years.

Modern electrolytic capacitors have improved 10 fold over the years.

Post by o***@tubes.com
Add to that, the fact that most caps are now made in China, and I know
they wont last. I try to get all NOS Orange Drop caps. They were made in
the USA and were top of the line. They cost more, but are the only ones
I consider worth buying.

"A fool and his money are soon parted."

While you're at it, why not buy NOS Black Beauty capacitors.

[Terry S]

You can't reason with the perfect combination of stubbornness, stupidity, selfishness, and senility. We like to call it moronship.

For now, they are his radios, let the guy do whatever he wants with them. Hopefully they will survive his estate sale and a smarter, better collector will take custody. We can only hope the damage is minimal. He's blissfully unaware that he is not the final owner of these relics.

Now about those shoelaces....

[Peter Wieck]

A bit of history might help you understand things. Once upon a time, light switches and receptacles were designed to be able to handle AC and DC. What happens when switching DC? Arcing. So, switches and receptacles, and switches in everything from lamps to toaster had to be arc-resistant. In addition, manufacturers did not have 100 years of historical data to design from. So, things were over-designed (by modern standards), heavy (by modern standards) and many have withstood the test of time and survive to this day. Today, switches are either AC or DC, designed to very specific standards, and as long as they are used within those standards, will also last indefinitely.

Capacitors started as foil-and-glass devices, evolving to foil-and-paper (cheap) sealed with paraffin wax + some bees wax for workability (cheap), and some were potted in tar (even then, manufacturers understood that the materials had self-decay problems) and various other methods were tried - and discarded over time. BUT, remember, EVERYTHING WAS NEW back in those days. Nobody had 100+ years of data to use, and what we understand today as being very short blind alleys were enticing options. So, there is a LOT of crap out there that was perfectly functional when made. Electrolytics evolved similarly and improved similarly. As did resistors, even tubes. Nuvistors, developed about the same times as reliable transistors, were thought then, and perhaps still, to have a pretty-much indefinite service-life as compared to a standard tube.

So, now the evolution of consumer-grade electronic components, caps, resistors, transistors, and so forth, has made them into commodities based on unprotected (no patent protection) technology using cheap-as-hell materials and largely automated manufacturing processes operating at a precision that was not possible back-then. Meaning that a Visay-Sprague has no competitive advantage over the Grace L. Furgeson storm-door and capacitor company, or the Wa-Chen capacitor company operating out of a garage in Shanghai. But that Wa-Chen capacitor is superior in every way to the Sprague wax-paper cap produced in 1947. Or that plastic-encapsulated cap produced by Philco in 1961.

You really need to step back and take a 20,000-foot view of this hobby. Don't plant your feet 'back in the day' as you *DO* have 100 years of data to pull from, and you *DO* have the opportunity to bypass the mistakes of others and go directly to the proper solution. There is not one person in 20 that understands the sequence of events necessary for the lamp in their ceiling fixture to light up at the flick of a switch. They take it for granted. Back in the day, that simple result was the nearest thing to magic the world had ever experienced. If you understand how we got here, you need not repeat the mistakes, or duplicate the errors, or repeat the learning process as experienced over the last 100 years. Save yourself the pain.

Otherwise the appearance of idiocy you seem to cultivate so carefully may, in fact, be your reality. That would be sad.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA