Anyone need parts from an Atwater Kent 55 chassis?

[John-Del]

It's complete including the belly pan but in bad shape.

If anyone needs anything let me know before it goes in the scrap metal pile.

John
Wolcott,CT

delstv|at|aol|dot|com

[John Robertson]

Post by John-Del
It's complete including the belly pan but in bad shape.
If anyone needs anything let me know before it goes in the scrap metal pile.
John
Wolcott,CT
delstv|at|aol|dot|com

Give it to Peter to take to Kutztown...what is rough to you may be an
opportunity to someone else.

John :-#)#

[John-Del]

Post by John Robertson

Post by John-Del
It's complete including the belly pan but in bad shape.
If anyone needs anything let me know before it goes in the scrap metal pile.
John
Wolcott,CT
delstv|at|aol|dot|com

Give it to Peter to take to Kutztown...what is rough to you may be an
opportunity to someone else.
John :-#)#
--
(Please post followups or tech inquiries to the USENET newsgroup)
John's Jukes Ltd.
MOVED to #7 - 3979 Marine Way, Burnaby, BC, Canada V5J 5E3
[phone] (Pinballs, Jukes, Video Games)
www.flippers.com
"Old pinballers never die, they just flip out."

I don't live near Peter, and it'd cost way more to ship than what it's worth. The donator told me it was a cocktail table radio once but the whole thing got wet and the cabinet fell apart. He brought the carcass in to me. It's really rough and the tuning caps are seized. But I figured if someone needed a transformer or something else off it I'd rather someone get some use out of it.

Hey, off topic, but I have a Premier System 3 that needs a battery. Instead of installing another coin, I was thinking about remoting two AA lithiums in a holder off board and using a diode right in the holder to drop the voltage back to three volts. Thoughts?

John
Wolcott, CT

[John Robertson]

Post by John-Del

Post by John Robertson

Post by John-Del
It's complete including the belly pan but in bad shape.
If anyone needs anything let me know before it goes in the scrap metal pile.
John
Wolcott,CT
delstv|at|aol|dot|com

Give it to Peter to take to Kutztown...what is rough to you may be an
opportunity to someone else.
John :-#)#

I don't live near Peter, and it'd cost way more to ship than what it's worth. The donator told me it was a cocktail table radio once but the whole thing got wet and the cabinet fell apart. He brought the carcass in to me. It's really rough and the tuning caps are seized. But I figured if someone needed a transformer or something else off it I'd rather someone get some use out of it.
Hey, off topic, but I have a Premier System 3 that needs a battery. Instead of installing another coin, I was thinking about remoting two AA lithiums in a holder off board and using a diode right in the holder to drop the voltage back to three volts. Thoughts?
John
Wolcott, CT

On your Gottlieb game there is no advantage to moving the battery
off-board as the lithium button cells don't appear to leak. And they are
good for upwards of 25 years...current draw is essentially zero uA.

John :-#)#

[Peter Wieck]

The AK55 chassis, working, in the Kiel Table is quite valuable. However, the 55 Chassis, per se, is not, being fussy, common, and requiring expensive output tubes (45s). Add white-metal disease (very common), and even thought they can be excellent performers, they are just not very popular.

However, I will ask around and see if there are any interested parties around here. We have a sort-of rescue fund for transporting orphans to where they are needed when the actual value does not otherwise support such things.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

[John Robertson]

Post by Peter Wieck
The AK55 chassis, working, in the Kiel Table is quite valuable. However, the 55 Chassis, per se, is not, being fussy, common, and requiring expensive output tubes (45s). Add white-metal disease (very common), and even thought they can be excellent performers, they are just not very popular.
However, I will ask around and see if there are any interested parties around here. We have a sort-of rescue fund for transporting orphans to where they are needed when the actual value does not otherwise support such things.
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

Speaking of expensive tubes has anyone looked into MosFET replacements
in the last couple of decades for the 'simpler' tubes?

https://www.electronicspoint.com/forums/threads/replacing-tubes-with-fet-transistor-cascodes.67374/

John :-#)#

[Peter Wieck]

https://www.antiqueradios.com/marc/1l6.html

http://www.solidstatetubes.com/50a1.html

http://amtelectronicsusa.com/productpage12AX7WS.html

And, of course, solid-state rectifiers subs have been around for many years. I have a feeling that we will be seeing more of this for some of the exotics.

Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

[John-Del]

Post by Peter Wieck
The AK55 chassis, working, in the Kiel Table is quite valuable. However, the 55 Chassis, per se, is not, being fussy, common, and requiring expensive output tubes (45s). Add white-metal disease (very common), and even thought they can be excellent performers, they are just not very popular.
However, I will ask around and see if there are any interested parties around here. We have a sort-of rescue fund for transporting orphans to where they are needed when the actual value does not otherwise support such things.
Peter Wieck
Melrose Park, PA

Thanks Peter.

Are there certain parts on the 55C chassis that is more prone to fail, and therefore a need for them? If the "hard" parts on these are trouble free, then I don't see much need to keep it for a donor.

I'll hold onto it until the end of the year at least lest someone can use something from it.

[John-Del]

Post by John Robertson

Post by John-Del
Hey, off topic, but I have a Premier System 3 that needs a battery. Instead of installing another coin, I was thinking about remoting two AA lithiums in a holder off board and using a diode right in the holder to drop the voltage back to three volts. Thoughts?
John
Wolcott, CT

On your Gottlieb game there is no advantage to moving the battery
off-board as the lithium button cells don't appear to leak. And they are
good for upwards of 25 years...current draw is essentially zero uA.
John :-#)#

Thanks John. I read (of course!) that the button cells should be changed every 5 years. If that was true, then remoting the battery off board would make sense as opposed to soldering in a new one. I wasn't worried about corrosion - just the next guy who owns this after I'm fertilizing the ground.

But if it lasts 25 years, then I'll just replace the one that's on the board.


John
Wolcott, CT

[John Robertson]

Post by John-Del

Post by John Robertson

Post by John-Del
Hey, off topic, but I have a Premier System 3 that needs a battery. Instead of installing another coin, I was thinking about remoting two AA lithiums in a holder off board and using a diode right in the holder to drop the voltage back to three volts. Thoughts?
John
Wolcott, CT

On your Gottlieb game there is no advantage to moving the battery
off-board as the lithium button cells don't appear to leak. And they are
good for upwards of 25 years...current draw is essentially zero uA.
John :-#)#

Thanks John. I read (of course!) that the button cells should be changed every 5 years. If that was true, then remoting the battery off board would make sense as opposed to soldering in a new one. I wasn't worried about corrosion - just the next guy who owns this after I'm fertilizing the ground.
But if it lasts 25 years, then I'll just replace the one that's on the board.
John
Wolcott, CT

No guarantee they will last 25 years, it is just that we are rarely see
System 3 games needing new batteries and the last machine was made in
1996 - Bard Wire.

The recommendation for 5 years was so the operator wouldn't lose the
book-keeping data - by proactively changing the battery before it failed
(with the game or MPU board powered up) using an isolated tip soldering
iron.

John :-#)#

[John-Del]

Post by John Robertson

Post by John-Del

Post by John Robertson

Post by John-Del
Hey, off topic, but I have a Premier System 3 that needs a battery. Instead of installing another coin, I was thinking about remoting two AA lithiums in a holder off board and using a diode right in the holder to drop the voltage back to three volts. Thoughts?
John
Wolcott, CT

On your Gottlieb game there is no advantage to moving the battery
off-board as the lithium button cells don't appear to leak. And they are
good for upwards of 25 years...current draw is essentially zero uA.
John :-#)#

Thanks John. I read (of course!) that the button cells should be changed every 5 years. If that was true, then remoting the battery off board would make sense as opposed to soldering in a new one. I wasn't worried about corrosion - just the next guy who owns this after I'm fertilizing the ground.
But if it lasts 25 years, then I'll just replace the one that's on the board.
John
Wolcott, CT

No guarantee they will last 25 years, it is just that we are rarely see
System 3 games needing new batteries and the last machine was made in
1996 - Bard Wire.

Since this game is from around 1991 and it worked a couple of years ago, it did indeed make it to 25 years, assuming it wasn't changed sometime in the past. I'll pull the board out this weekend and see what's in it now. I did all the solder work (mostly monitor work) for the vendor who gave me this game when he closed and I can't recall changing a coin cell in a pin for him.

But a new coin cell is what it's going to get. Do you know which one it is or is any 3V lithium fine?

John
Wolcott, CT

[John Robertson]

Post by John-Del

Post by John Robertson

Post by John-Del

Post by John Robertson

Post by John-Del
Hey, off topic, but I have a Premier System 3 that needs a battery. Instead of installing another coin, I was thinking about remoting two AA lithiums in a holder off board and using a diode right in the holder to drop the voltage back to three volts. Thoughts?
John
Wolcott, CT

On your Gottlieb game there is no advantage to moving the battery
off-board as the lithium button cells don't appear to leak. And they are
good for upwards of 25 years...current draw is essentially zero uA.
John :-#)#

Thanks John. I read (of course!) that the button cells should be changed every 5 years. If that was true, then remoting the battery off board would make sense as opposed to soldering in a new one. I wasn't worried about corrosion - just the next guy who owns this after I'm fertilizing the ground.
But if it lasts 25 years, then I'll just replace the one that's on the board.
John
Wolcott, CT

No guarantee they will last 25 years, it is just that we are rarely see
System 3 games needing new batteries and the last machine was made in
1996 - Bard Wire.

Since this game is from around 1991 and it worked a couple of years ago, it did indeed make it to 25 years, assuming it wasn't changed sometime in the past. I'll pull the board out this weekend and see what's in it now. I did all the solder work (mostly monitor work) for the vendor who gave me this game when he closed and I can't recall changing a coin cell in a pin for him.
But a new coin cell is what it's going to get. Do you know which one it is or is any 3V lithium fine?
John
Wolcott, CT

Offhand I don't know which one. Sorry!

John :-#)#